Episode 2

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Published on:

5th May 2025

Transforming Gray: Pro Tips for Colorists - Part 2

If you’ve ever felt stuck covering resistant gray hair or wondered why your go-to formula suddenly stopped working—this episode is for you. In Part 2 of our gray coverage series, Dustin and I are getting even deeper into the why and how behind successful gray coverage. From pre-softening to ammonia shots, we’re breaking down the lesser-known techniques that can seriously change the game behind the chair.

We’re also talking about the importance of individualized formulations, the myths around 20 volume, why never to premix your color, and how listening to what your client really means can prevent major color mishaps. Whether you’re dealing with that one stubborn patch of gray or trying to rework a shoe-polish disaster, this episode is full of practical tools and creative insights you can start using right away.


Episode Timeline:


[1:30] – What pre-softening really is—and how to use it effectively

[5:22] – Why ammonia content matters more than you think

[10:15] – The power of keeping detailed records for forensic formulation

[15:48] – Debunking the myth of 20 volume as a gray coverage must

[21:30] – Using ammonia shots to boost penetration without excess pigment

[28:45] – Strategies for covering frizzy or wiry gray around the hairline

[34:10] – Why creativity (and not comfort) keeps your formulations strong

[40:00] – Consulting at every appointment—even with long-time clients

[46:55] – The big no-no: why you should never premix your color

[50:30] – How to get our free Gray Coverage Tips PDF and ask us questions!


🔗 Links & Resources:


Download the FREE Gray Coverage PDF: hairmdpod.com/graycoverage


More resources & tools: hairmdpod.com


Loved this episode?

If this helped shift your thinking or gave you something new to try behind the chair, do us a solid and share this episode with a fellow stylist. Leave a review, drop a rating, and hit that follow button so you don’t miss Part 3 (yes—it’s coming!). Your support helps us keep bringing you more real talk from behind the chair. Thanks for listening to Hair MD—we’ll see you next time!

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About the Podcast

HairMD
Stop memorizing. Start understanding. A podcast for stylists who want to know why hair color works (or doesn’t).
HairMD started with a simple question: what if we stopped memorizing manufacturer instructions and actually understood what was happening in the hair? This podcast is for stylists who are done following rules without context—who want to know the "why" behind every formula, tone shift, and gray coverage challenge.
We’re not here to sell product lines or repeat surface-level advice. We break down the real chemistry, structure, and logic of hair color—one concept at a time. Some episodes dive into technical theory; others are straight-up salon talk about what’s working, what’s not, and how we fix it.

About your hosts

Melissa Franco

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Melissa is a hairstylist, colorist, and educator whose passion for the science and theory behind hair color has shaped every step of her career. She began at Dustin David Salon, where the salon’s intensive training program gave her the tools, mentorship, and space to explore color on a deeper, more technical level.

By 2016, she was teaching foundational theory to assistants and new stylists. Two years later, she launched a structured curriculum that worked alongside the salon’s hands-on color training — helping new stylists build confidence and a more creative approach to formulation.

Melissa has been recognised as a Top 25 Finalist in the One Shot Hair Awards; she’s known for blending technical expertise with a curiosity-driven approach to education.

Now, as co-host of HairMD, Melissa is continuing her mission to bring real-world, science-based education to hairstylists everywhere.

Dustin David

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Dustin David is a nationally recognized hairstylist, educator, and salon owner with over two decades of experience shaping the careers of beauty professionals. Throughout his years behind the chair and as the owner of Dustin David Salon in Los Gatos, California, he has built a reputation for developing talented stylists and elevating standards across the industry.

Known for his commitment to mentorship and education, Dustin created a salon culture where continuous learning, technical mastery, and professional growth are a way of life. Now, as co-host of HairMD, he’s expanding that mission beyond the four walls of his salon — helping hairstylists everywhere access real-world education, deepen their understanding of hair color science, and unlock new levels of success behind the chair.

With a career rooted in passion, leadership, and a drive to see others succeed, Dustin brings a unique voice to HairMD — one that blends decades of experience with a genuine dedication to the future of the beauty industry.